Italian Pizza Traditions: From Naples to North America

Pizza is more than just a delicious meal—it's a cultural artifact that tells the story of migration, adaptation, and the preservation of tradition. As Pizzaiolo's culinary historian and a third-generation pizzaiolo myself, I'm fascinated by how authentic Italian pizza traditions traveled across the Atlantic and evolved while maintaining their soul. This is the story of that journey, and how our family's commitment to those traditions has shaped Pizzaiolo since the 1940s.

The Birthplace: Pizza in Naples

To understand pizza's journey to North America, we must first return to its birthplace: Naples, Italy. While flatbreads with toppings have existed in various cultures for centuries, the modern pizza as we know it emerged in Naples in the late 18th and early 19th centuries.

Naples was a working-class city where people needed affordable, quick food that could be eaten without utensils. Local bakers began selling flatbreads topped with simple ingredients like tomatoes, garlic, oil, and occasionally cheese or anchovies. These early pizzas were street food, sold from open-air stands and small shops called "pizzerias."

One of the most famous early pizzas was the Margherita, reportedly created in 1889 when pizzaiolo Raffaele Esposito made a pizza for Queen Margherita of Savoy using tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil—ingredients representing the colors of the Italian flag. Whether this story is entirely true or partly legend, it symbolizes an important shift: pizza was beginning to gain recognition beyond its working-class origins.

The Elements of Neapolitan Tradition

What made Neapolitan pizza distinctive wasn't just its ingredients but the entire approach to preparation and baking. The traditional methods included:

• Hand-kneaded dough: Made with simple ingredients (flour, water, salt, and a minimal amount of yeast), kneaded by hand to develop structure while maintaining tenderness
• Long fermentation: Allowing dough to develop slowly over 24-72 hours, creating complex flavors and improved digestibility
• Hand-stretching: Forming the pizza exclusively by hand, never using a rolling pin which would crush the valuable air pockets
• Wood-fired ovens: Baking at extremely high temperatures (850-900°F/450-480°C) for just 60-90 seconds
• Minimal toppings: Using a few high-quality ingredients rather than an abundance of toppings

These elements created the distinctive Neapolitan pizza: soft and pliable in the center with a puffy, charred cornicione (rim) that showcased the quality of the dough itself.

The Great Migration: Pizza Crosses the Atlantic

Early Days in America

Between 1880 and 1924, more than 4 million Italians immigrated to the United States, with a significant percentage coming from southern Italy, including Naples. These immigrants brought their culinary traditions with them, including pizza.

The first documented pizzeria in North America was Lombardi's, opened in 1905 in New York City by Gennaro Lombardi, an immigrant from Naples. Operating out of a grocery store, Lombardi's sold pizza similar to what was found in Naples—simple, with minimal toppings.

The Canadian Connection

Italian immigration to Canada followed a slightly different pattern, with many arrivals coming after World War II. In the post-war period, thousands of Italians sought new opportunities in Canada, bringing their culinary traditions to cities like Toronto, Montreal, and Vancouver.

It was during this wave that my own family arrived in Toronto. My grandfather, Alessandro Martino, had learned the art of pizza-making in Naples and brought those skills with him to Canada. In 1947, he opened one of the earliest authentic Neapolitan pizzerias in Toronto, laying the foundation for what would eventually become Pizzaiolo.

Evolution of Pizza in North America

As pizza spread throughout North America, it inevitably evolved. New variants emerged that reflected local tastes, available ingredients, and practical considerations.

Adaptations and Innovations

Several key changes occurred as pizza adapted to North American contexts:

1. Larger sizes: American pizzas generally became larger than their Neapolitan counterparts
2. Thicker crusts: Different regional styles emerged, including Chicago's deep dish and Detroit's pan pizza
3. More abundant toppings: The minimalist Neapolitan approach gave way to more generous topping portions
4. New combinations: Toppings not found in traditional Italian pizzas (like pineapple, barbecue chicken, or ranch dressing) became popular
5. Gas ovens: Wood-fired ovens were often replaced with more practical gas alternatives

These changes weren't necessarily improvements or degradations—simply adaptations to a new environment. Pizza was evolving as a living cultural artifact.

The Commercialization Era

By the 1950s and 60s, pizza had begun its transformation from an ethnic food to a mainstream American staple. Chain pizzerias emerged, with Pizza Hut opening in 1958 and Domino's in 1960. The focus shifted toward consistency, speed, and cost-effectiveness rather than artisanal tradition.

Many shortcuts were introduced during this period to streamline production:

• Pre-made dough balls
• Mechanical dough sheeters replacing hand-stretching
• Pre-shredded cheese blends
• Conveyor belt ovens
• Standardized sauce formulations

While these innovations made pizza more accessible and affordable, something of the original artisanal nature was lost in the process.

The Artisanal Renaissance

By the 1990s and early 2000s, a reaction against mass-produced foods began to emerge. Consumers started showing renewed interest in traditional production methods, artisanal quality, and authentic experiences. This created an opportunity for a pizza renaissance.

Return to Tradition

A new generation of pizzaiolos began looking back to Naples for inspiration. Key developments included:

• Revival of wood-fired ovens: Pizzerias began installing traditional domed ovens again
• Emphasis on fermentation: Long, slow fermentation returned as a mark of quality
• Imported ingredients: Italian 00 flour, San Marzano tomatoes, and DOP-certified cheeses became selling points
• Certification programs: Organizations like the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (AVPN) began certifying authentic Neapolitan pizzerias outside Italy

This wasn't simply nostalgia, but a recognition that traditional methods often produced superior results—flavors, textures, and experiences that couldn't be replicated through industrialized processes.

Pizzaiolo's Approach: Tradition Meets Innovation

At Pizzaiolo, we've navigated this evolution with a philosophy that respects tradition while embracing thoughtful innovation. Throughout our expansion to over 40 locations, we've maintained core principles:

• Never frozen dough: We still make our dough fresh daily in each location
• Hand-stretched only: We train all our pizzaiolos in traditional hand-stretching techniques
• House-made sauce: Our sauce is made from scratch using a recipe that hasn't changed in decades
• Proper fermentation: We give our dough the time it needs to develop flavor and digestibility

At the same time, we've embraced innovations that improve quality or meet evolving customer needs:

• Developing vegan, gluten-free, and cauliflower crust options
• Creating a loyalty app for modern convenience
• Implementing contactless delivery systems
• Using locally sourced ingredients when possible to reduce environmental impact

The Cultural Significance of Pizza

Beyond the technical aspects of dough and ovens, pizza holds profound cultural significance. It represents:

A Bridge Between Cultures

Pizza exemplifies how immigrant foods can become integral to a new country's cuisine while maintaining connections to their origins. It's neither entirely Italian nor entirely North American anymore—it exists in a beautiful in-between space.

Accessibility and Democracy

From its origins as affordable street food in Naples to its current ubiquity, pizza has remained remarkably democratic. It can be elevated to fine dining or kept simple and accessible, making it one of few foods that transcend socioeconomic boundaries.

Community and Sharing

Few foods are as communal as pizza. The round shape, sliced for sharing, inherently brings people together. This aspect of pizza culture—gathering around a shared meal—remains constant whether in a small trattoria in Naples or a family dinner in Toronto.

Looking to the Future

As we look ahead, we see both challenges and opportunities for maintaining authentic pizza traditions in North America:

Challenges

• Scale vs. Craft: Balancing growth with maintaining artisanal quality
• Knowledge Transfer: Ensuring new generations learn traditional techniques
• Ingredient Sourcing: Maintaining quality as supply chains face climate and economic pressures
• Changing Tastes: Adapting to evolving dietary preferences while preserving authenticity

Opportunities

• Growing Appreciation: Increasing consumer understanding of quality and craft
• Cultural Exchange: Continuing dialogue between Italian traditions and North American innovations
• Education: Using technology to share knowledge of traditional methods more widely
• Sustainability: Developing approaches that honor tradition while addressing environmental concerns

The Pizza Connection

At Pizzaiolo, we see ourselves as stewards of a living tradition. Every time we shape a dough ball, stoke an oven, or serve a perfectly blistered pizza, we're participating in a cultural practice that connects us to the streets of Naples, to generations of immigrant pizzaiolos, and to the future of this beloved food.

The magic of pizza lies in this connection—between past and present, between cultures, and between people gathered around a table. In a world that often feels fragmented, there's something profoundly meaningful about maintaining these threads of continuity through something as seemingly simple as pizza.

We invite you to be part of this continuing story. Whether you're a pizza aficionado or simply someone who enjoys a good slice, you're participating in a cultural tradition that spans oceans, generations, and the complex journey from Naples to North America.